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MARKET OUTLOOK
The pressure on Group companies to change has probably never China to India and Bangladesh, with a small part of the company’s
been higher than it is today. Geopolitical tensions and the manufacturing currently taking place in Europe. It’s worth mentioning
challenging cost situation, combined with a paradigm shift in that Oscar Jacobson has returned some of its manufacturing to
the perception of what is sustainable, are resulting in a cocktail of new Ukraine and will be happy to expand there as soon as the geopolitical
demands being made of companies and their management. According situation allows.”
to Sven Knutsson, Deputy CEO of Mellby Gård, this has meant that the
companies have had to review where they manufacture products and “In recent years, it’s become clear that there are many unresolved
make their purchases. He is the chairman of Klarahill, Oscar Jacobson and hidden tensions in the world,” he says. “Also, democracy is under
and Söderberg & Haak, among other companies, all of which have pressure in several countries, which you couldn’t have foreseen a few
managed to successfully navigate the new market situation. years ago. This is a new situation that affects the way Mellby Gård does
business and that the Group has to deal with.”
“Klarahill along with Verahill has developed well in 2023 and made
great strides towards the goal of net sales of half a billion Swedish “The main conclusion for dealing with a turbulent environment is to
kronor in 2026,” he says. “Cooperation and synergies between the work even more on risk diversification, as you never know where, when
companies are working well. With a solid foundation, we’ve now been or how something will happen next,” he says.
able to expand the business geographically to northern Sweden and
now cover large parts of the country.” GETTING THE PRICE RIGHT MORE IMPORTANT
THAN EVER
“After a strong 2022, we had a more cautious view of Oscar Jacobson
for 2023,” says Sven Knutsson. “But sales held up very well for most The geopolitical situation has strongly contributed to greater pressure
of the year. Sustainability is very high on the agenda in the textile in terms of costs and higher inflation. Pricing is always high on the
industry. An exciting step in the company’s sustainability efforts is agenda at Mellby Gård. It is important to have a logical and structured
the store it has opened on Birger Jarlsgatan in Stockholm. Sustain by pricing process, and to continuously monitor changes in costs so any
Oscar Jacobson, where we sell second-hand clothes and samples, has compensatory measures can be quickly implemented.
developed well, which is why we’re opening another Sustain store, this
time in Gothenburg.” “During the year, we’ve made sure to adjust our prices and have
always done so to compensate for higher costs,” says Sven Knutsson.
“Söderberg & Haak continues to face challenges,” he says. “The “We want to maintain our margin, but not profit from inflation to
company operates in two areas: construction and agriculture. The increase profitability.”
construction part of the company is now becoming increasingly
important, while we still have a foot in the agricultural industry, as Another key strategy for Mellby Gård is for the companies to be
we can see clear synergies in operating in both areas. We made a big in the right part of the value chain. The optimum situation is many
change in 2023 that will also make its mark on part of 2024. The goal suppliers, a lot of customers and a strong brand.
is to head into 2025 with more focused activities and an optimally
adapted organization.” “In one of our companies, we had two suppliers for an extremely
important product, but one of them bought out the other and suddenly
NEW RISKS TO CONSIDER we were left with only one supplier,” says Sven Knutsson. “The same
happened with a sector-specific IT system where there were three
As a consequence of the pandemic and the turbulent geopolitical operators, but they merged to become one company.”
situation, many companies are looking to move manufacturing
operations to Europe. This is primarily to reduce risk, but there is also a “This type of consolidation at the supplier or customer level is
clear sustainability aspect to bringing manufacturing closer to the local impossible to resist,” he says. “We quite simply have to be excellent
market. It can reduce lead times and the amount of transportation planners so we can navigate this.”
required, which is positive. This is particularly the case for the clothing
industry, where longer lead times mean more risk in terms of fashion The assessment for 2024 is that private consumption in Sweden
and volumes. Sven Knutsson explains: will decline, mainly due to the broader impact of higher mortgage
rates. Although it is still uncertain how this will affect Mellby Gård’s
“In clothing companies, we generally endeavour to reduce the companies, Sven Knutsson is cautiously optimistic.
degree of fashion. At the same time, we have to remain relevant to our
customers. We aim to create garments that can be used many times “The return of interest on capital is healthy,” he says. “Free capital
and then be repaired to be used again. To do this, we need to maintain isn’t good for individuals or businesses, and it’s especially bad from a
high quality at all stages, which means a slightly higher manufacturing sustainability perspective. With low – or no – interest, we’ve seen many
cost. But we’re willing to pay to meet our ambitious targets for the companies not paying enough attention to how much capital they have
sustainability of our garments and our environmental footprint.” tied up in stock. This is perhaps most evident today in a large number
of e-retailers who are left with large inventories, sometimes also of the
“Overall, we’re aiming to reduce our exposure by diversifying wrong kind. That didn’t matter so much when money was free, but now
our risks,” he says. “For example, at Kappahl we’ve allocated our that inventory costs five to seven percent, it’s important to reduce
purchases by moving a fairly large proportion of manufacturing from inventory levels to free up capital and reduce the burden of debt.”
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